Showing posts with label Lahore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lahore. Show all posts

Monday, 16 September 2013

Salaam


Salaam

 

Lahore is chilled and smoggy this morning; the morning traffic, anxious and edgy.

 

All at once, traffic lights at the intersection blink and go dead. The brakes of a police van squeal as it halts at the middle of the crossroads with a massive jerk. Round-tummied sentries tumble out and scurry all over the intersection square, shouting at motor-cyclists, bikers, rickshaw drivers, motorists and a painted school bus to move back and clear the center…more …more and more. Passengers roll the window screens down and demand to be given an explanation. Their demands, as always, go unheard.

 

In the dewy school-bus windows, curious eyes behind quashed noses, watch the scurry.

 

The traffic stoppage has started to work its mischief. Beggars percolate through the trail of whirring engines. Salaam, the beggar boy who’s been staring at the school bus thoughtfully, works some arithmetic in his head; the simple equation he knows. Switched off traffic lights plus abundant police is equal to a traffic stoppage plus extra collection of money. And extra money is reciprocal to a big meal at the Daira.

 

A big meal! Salaam slurps. A smile dissolves in his artificially-frowning features. The shadow-man whose job is to shadow the beggars working at this square all day, passes him a glare. Salaam is not allowed to smile during begging time. He must save all the smiles for the evening gathering at the Daira where he's sometimes made to dance and entertain older beggars.

 

Riders are grumbling fiercely now. If it’s a minister for whom they’ve stopped the traffic, it’ll take 15 minutes. If it’s the CM, the Chief Minister, it’ll be no less than 30.

 

And then a rumor seeps down the squirmy band of vehicles - fast as a bullet:

 

It’s the Prime Minister. The PM.

 

Two greedy little ears devour the rumor. Salam has no inkling of what distinguishes a minister from a CM or a CM from a PM. However, his mental math is at work again. The word Prime Minister equals an even longer stoppage and that means even more money and even more money means an even bigger meal.

 

He hides behind the big graying tree, takes out the water-filled syringe from his pocket and presses its piston close to his eyes. Water tears spread around his eye bags and skid down his dirt-stained cheeks.

 

Work begins. Window after window, he whines the new story his trainer at the Daira has taught him. As for a veteran stage actor, the world hazes out as he plays the role of a heartsick orphan who needs to collect twenty two hundred rupees for the burial of his mother who has died last night. Coins and petti currency notes rain out from big hands into Salaam’s small ones. He keeps stuffing them in his pocket.

 

Tears dry up and he has to rush to the tree to wet his eyes again. He sees that a row of beggars and pedestrians holding small national flags has lined up along the edges of the square.

 

Suddenly, a tall man thrusts a flag in his hands and says: “You’ll get a hundred rupees for standing there and shouting “zinda-baad”

 

The words ‘A hundred rupees’ have no appeal for Salaam. He can collect the amount in ten minutes by bringing that extra woeful look to his face and, anyway, the money would go into Ustaad’s kitty in the evening. But holding a flag and shouting zinda-baad sounds like fun... like precious minutes of a mid-morning break in schools. Staring at the school bus once again, he accepts the flag from the tall man and joins the unkempt cheer-leaders. He flutters the flag this way and that, now smiling freely because shadow man is nowhere close.

 

To employ utmost vigilance, a policeman with eagle-like mustaches is feeling the bodies of the cheerers holding little green-and-white flags. He pulls it out if he feels anything suspicious; cigarette packs, cheap wallets. Nothing serious has been found so far.

 

It’s Salaam’s turn. The man with eagle-like mustaches pats Salam’s body. Nothing. Nothing. Nothing. He feels his secret pocket. A frown appears on his face.  He draws out the object that has spawned the frown and holds it up for his senior official to see.

 

It’s a syringe filled with light brown liquid.

 

“Grab him!” the official shouts.

 

Curious eyes behind quashed noses in the dewy school-bus windows, spread out with horror.

 

“A terrorist boy!” the teacher in the bus whispers.

 

And Salaam is hauled towards the gigantic police van.

 

Monday, 25 March 2013

Lahore: Garnished with a Green Sprig

Lahore: A Green Sprig for Garnish


As gently as features of a picture develop on photo-paper dipped in developing solution, domes and minarets shapen on the skyline. The city shakens itself free of the gray winter blanket. Bit by bit, fuzzy abstractness densifies into crystalline distinctness. Colors deepen out of the memory of the city. Lahore is suddenly the child that knows all its poems by heart.

Spring takes off in my city.

Air dances up and down the streets. Idle boys yell as a street batsman hits a ball and it goes flying to the sky. The hero glances at the female audience watching from the roof top. His eyes meet his favorite girl's and a promise is made.

In a nearby park, perched at the extreme point on an eagled-out branch of the magnolia tree, the grasshopper ogles its stiff-lipped lover with a fatal, bulgy-eyed wanting. The air is loaded with love and every being in the garden is planning when and where to plant the perfect kiss. The gardener frowns as he bends on the bed of petunias and peers at an early bud - the only one that has opened. No less thrilled than an expectant father, he searches the newborn for a sign that would affirm that the seed was genuine. A smile dawns on his lips. (Yes! It's plum with flecks of lilac! It's mine!)

In a posh mansion, a garden party reaches its crescendo. They are giving birthday bumps to the effeminate dress designer. "Ooh! Aah!" the designer bawls and everyone goes crazy with laughter..

Right outside, on the grassy patch along the road, a scavenger boy takes a break from his trash hunt. Lying crosslegged, eyes half-closed, he dreams of bulky trash baskets.

There's a big brouhaha outside the shopping mall. Yet another designer has launched her latest lawn-print collection. Uncouth housewives and sophisticated socialites all jostle for position near the sales counter. The combative ambience, the voluptuous want, and the cut-throat desperation...only cowards will return home empty handed. A seemingly composed shopper who's been watching the melee with distaste, mumbles 'Crazy Lahori Women' and bulldozes her way through the humid crush to the flowered and birded heaven on fabric.

Eyes fixed on the kiteless sky in the hospital window somewhere in the city, a kite-loving Lahorite breathes his last.

In a school close-by, teachers teach little children how to make unfliable, legal kites. The illegal ones, the ones that flew, can be painted in the drawing class, they say. The air sighs as the sweeper sweeps away the animated effigies; sad, cartoonish relic of a historic beauty.

On the Canal Road, a moron poet kneels down at the edge of the canal and searches the inverted under-water world. Behind him, poplars rustle as the breeze brushes past. In the dappled shade of the trees, coins of light dance and play. The poet bites his finger to stop his heart from bursting of ecstasy. A moan is heard through the rustle. He looks around and sees some chopped trees piled nearby.

"Don't cry!" he says to the chopped up trunks and looks around. On the clearing, where these trees stood till last week, a bill board has been raised.

'Keep Lahore Clean and Green'.

The poet reads aloud and laughs. he laughs till he falls on his back and rolls from side to side. Thousands of marigolds flocked along the side-walk raise their heads and listen.

A just-migrated, hungry villager walking past wonders what a marigold flower tastes like.

The echo of the moron's laugh rings out far and wide. Sleeping deep down in the soil, summer stretches its legs, readying itself to rise and rule.

So, as long as it lasts, dear all, enjoy Lahore garnished with a green sprig.

 

Friday, 18 January 2013

Lahore: Tastes Best When Served Cold

Lahore: Tastes Best When Served Cold

A gray cloud over my city with more liquor than it can contain in its belly; like a drunkard, gags all over.

The first shower sweeps up the streets. A woman whips her washing off the rope. A homebound walker folds his shoulders in and quickens. In dewy school-bus windows, curious eyes behind quashed noses, watch the scurry.

In the bush, a starved kitten mews for its mother.

In coffee houses, showy teens damn the weather; vain college girls parade their frilly woollies; smug entrepreneurs waffle on about the dollar( ruppee? that old thing?); self-conscious juniors in office-suits with coffee mugs in their listening hands, do their best; chairbound fat women devour the great buffet and snicker about aging bimbos in a Kitty tea; the bimbos, easing their time-honored itch of showing off fancy furs, chat like its nobody's business; juicy waiters glide up and down the crammed aisles, carrying garnished trays and clouds of steam around; lovers nestle in dark corners, eyeing the non-lovers distastefully.

Out in the smog, in a parked car, a yawny chauffeur snuggles behind the wheel, and dreams an impossible dream.

Fog thickens and abstracts the kaleidoscopic bazaars. Liberty fuzzes. Shoppers become misty outlines of themselves and shops sit on silent haunches, waiting to be found. On the pavement, the roar of an unseen flame and cloudy puffs of alive steam charm the walkers into veering off course. An opportunist has set up a noodle stall that sells steaming noodles in paper cups. The warming smoothness, the ease of the slurp and the cossetting taste: handy cheap pleasure for all. The outer layer of the noodle crowd keeps shedding away and rebuilding around the old samosa stall where they huddle around the great frying wok and warm their hands on the fire. A hawker with a hot-box slung around his neck evolves from the mist and calls: "Garam aandaa-a-a-y!"

On the walk, the begger curles up under a flimsy blanket, one scraggy hand poking out to cup the rain of coins.

Lahore Sun will soon be back from its short hibernation. Three consecutive days it rises and shines on the shivering city and the fragile winter will frizzle away. But till then, ladies and gentlemen, I offer you Lahore: tastes best when served cold.



 

Saturday, 12 January 2013

Sardaaran


 Sardaaran 

 

On a crisp morning early this December, in the veranda of a house in Gulberg where an international conference was going on, I met a young girl from India. It was the tea break and everyone was mingling and chatting. Sunlight sifting through the immense peepul trees was eerily balmy, the air fresh and scented. As I poured myself a steaming cup of tea, a sari-clad girl smiled at me from across the coffee dispenser. She introduced herself as Eesha, an architect from Gujarat, India. Coins of light danced on our faces as we chatted lightly.

“I am not coming.” Eesha said when we were at the topic of the much-awaited Gujarat tour planned for the last day of the conference. 

“Why not?”  

“My visa status says: ‘Lahore Only’,” she sang in her sweet voice and the rest of our conversation revolved around the futility of the prevailing visa policy between the two countries. 

The irony of it all is that Eesha lives in Gujarat, India. 

“I was thrilled to know that there’s a place in Pakistan with the same name as the state I live in. I thought that this chance I was getting to go on a tourism spree around my home-state’s namesake was a godsend. But when I read my visa detail…” 

The devil has a reputation of being in the detail. Quite justified. I could imagine what a damper her visa description must have been after all the research she said she had done on the origin of the word Gujarat and the enigma behind the name similarity.  

For the next two days we met intermittently. As I knew her more, she was modest and forthcoming. Mostly we talked about random womanly interests specially because we were bent at keeping it light as focusing on the minutiae of the well-researched papers was anyhow quite strenuous; but the subject would swing inevitably to the dreaded topic: The Aftermath of the Partition. 

The week went by. The conference ended. Eesha and other guests of the conference departed. I, normally a comfortable person, was going through a bout of odd discomfort. I tried listening to the sound of the prickly voice that lives in my head and whose only job seems to give me a guilt trip when I'm least expecting it. It turned out that the insignificant case of Eesha’s visa constraint had brought back an old and sad memory.  

It had brought back Sardaaran. 

Sardaaran was a tall and scrawny old woman with an exceptionally brisk walk who used to roam in the streets of Old Muslim Town, Lahore in the nineteen-nineties. Those days, we had a house in that vicinity so bumping into Sardaaran was quite a possibility. Clad in tattered rags, her hair spread around her head in matted ropes, she would emerge from the end of the street and walk towards you at an alarming speed… as if she had a score to settle. But then, she would walk past and vanish down the street, oblivious to the telltale signs of fear she had spawned. 

Totaly indifferent to people and vehicles on the road, she would sit on the roadside green, scratching her head, whispering to herself.  Sometimes she would do civilly incorrect actions like gathering her shalwar high up on her thighs to reveal most of her long bony legs; sometimes even taking off an indispensible piece of clothing. It was years later that I learned that she hadn’t started this game. Civilization had been incorrect to her first. More so than its prevailing indifference to her plight. 

One chilly winter evening as I was enjoying a snuggle on my favorite seat beside the fireplace, the doorbell rang. Unwantingly, I went to answer it. I was shocked to see Sardaaran at the gate. 

“Give me coals. Give me coals!” she said abruptly.

"Coals?" I asked, not quite getting what she meant.

"Coals are good. Coals keep me warm. I will go; first give me coals," she muttered feverishly, her gaze fixed to the ground below. 

My three-year old son who had followed me to the gate, tugged at my sleeve, warning me to stay away in his own sweet way. Passing him a reassuring smile and asking Sardaaran to wait for my return, I strode back, my boy’s hand gripped firmly in mine. When I returned, I was holding a small bag with a used sweater and shawl inside. With a smile, I offered her the garments. 

“I want coals. Coals are good,” she said, not even glancing at the woollies that I had pulled out of the bag for for her to see what she was getting. 

“I don’t have coals, Sardaaran. No one uses coals any more. We have gas stoves now.” 

“I want coals to keep me warm,” she said as if she hadn’t heard me and walked off muttering, “Where will I get coals to keep me warm?” 

I was rather angry at her for being ungrateful. 

Sardaaran died that winter. One morning she was found frozen to death outside a tea stall on  the nearby Wahdat Road.

She was soon forgotten.  

Years later, Sardaaran’s story was revealed to me by a household helper named Gaami.   

Sardaaran was one of the numerous daughters of a local Sikh merchandiser who migrated to India when sectarian riots broke loose in Lahore in 1947. Apparently, round then, Sardaaran was in love with a young boy of a sound Muslim family, also her father’s acquaintance. The boy had vowed that he would have no problem talking his parents into allowing them to marry. Young, naive and deeply in love, Sardaaran had  promised him that she would stay back in Lahore if and when exodus of Sikhs would become inevitable. Every one around knew it was coming up; that their destiny had been decided by some strangers with high-sounding family names in far-off hotel conference rooms.

The day came sooner than they had expected 

With incidents of looting and killing Hindu and Sikh families more common and intense, Sardaaran's family had to make an emergency exit from Lahore. Sardaran broke the news of her intentions to her shocked parents at the last hour. The boy was there too to give them his word that Sardaaran would be well looked after and safe. Reluctantly, they left without Sardaaran. The boy took her to his widowed uncle who had already agreed on giving her temporary lodging in his house in Model Town.

In the beginning things looked good. Sardaraan and her fiancĂ© would plan the upcoming wedding and he would often take her to meet his parents. They to were happy to have her for lunch or dinner. But sunny days ended soon. The boy lost interest in her and eventually married his cousin. Sardaaran had no option left but to serve as a house-maid in the old uncle’s house, the only place under the sun upon which she had any claim left, however fragile. 

It was rumored that the old uncle’s fatherly feelings towards Sardaaran were later thwarted by his ‘basic instincts’ and he made her his sex partner; under duress or by her consent, nobody could ever tell. Eventually, people began to notice that Sardaaran was going a little fuzzy in the head. As her illness progressed, she became more disoriented and forgetful. She would go grocery shoppping or trash dispensing and forget her way back. For hours she would roam on the roads of Model Town, asking people to escort her back. First there was one lustful man who took advantage of weak mental faculties. Then there was another. Then another. And another. Her custodians now took her as a source of disgrace for the RESPECTABLE family. As a result, the doors of the house were closed on her. 

Begum Shaheen Mirza, a kindhearted woman of the neighborhood who had helped numerous displaced persons to reunite with their families, tried to dig out the whereabouts of Sardaaran’s family from the archives of partition records. But there was no sign of them on the face of the earth. So, like many homeless people who live on the roads and become hidden in plain sight, Sardaaran also became a part of the milieu of Lahore. Unimportant, insignificant but permanently there.  

Occasionally, a kindhearted person would make an attempt to rehabilitate Sardaaran. But it was too late. Sardaaran was beyond help. Life on the road was her only truth. It was the only life she now knew.

Gaami, the cleaning lady who told me Sardaaran’s story, stated an interesting fact about her. She said Sardaaran was very fond tea. Roaming on the roads, she would stop at teashops and stare at people consuming the hot drink. Teastall owners would take pity on her and give her a cupful -  with an occasional bun or biscuit -  and she would slurp it down with unshaking fervor; with ultimate focus; as if all bounties of the universe had shrunken and become a cup of tea; as if time had shrunken and become a moment; as if humanity had shrunken and become a demented old woman and was devoring its last food supply.  

I find it ironical that she died outside the tea stall. Like a fated lover dying outside the home of his lost love. Tea, perhaps, was Sardaaran's last link with tangible world; the only remnant of the person Sardaaran once was.
 
Saradaran isn’t the only person destroyed by politicians' whims. Just in that particular incident, the politically glorious attempt of designing a new homeland for humans of a specific description, millions died, millions were humiliated and millions lost any connection whatsoever with the lives they knew. It's as if they had slept one night and woke up to an alien world. The tragic aftermath of the trans-exodus had left the world pondering: Was what happened a necessary muddle the people had to pass through to reach a state of social balance? or Was what happened so ugly that no social height could ever justify the horrors it had climbed through? Deep down in their hearts, everyone knew and knows the answer. No amount of glorification can cover up the volley of terror that went loose on both sides of the border when the ill-imagined exchange of populations took place.

Eesha's constraint, a mere trifling compared to the attrocities mechanized by The Partition, just reminds me that sixty-six years past, we still live under the pink cloud of the Bloody Partitiont.